Refinishing Matching Bookcases

I started by removing the backs of the bookcase. They were damaged, and it was unrealistic to try to patch the holes.
I then lightly cleaned the bookcases with a microfiber cloth and water.

Although Heirloom Traditions paint does not require sanding, the bookcases had a lot of bumps and bruises, therefore I did sand. I didn’t try to sand out every scratch though, because having some added character to the piece.
I used my electric sander with a lower grit at first and then finished it off with a 220.
If you need some help deciding what grit to use, read the article, “How to Choose the Right Sandpaper Grit for Your Project” from Better Homes and Gardens. If you want a quick simple guide: the lower the grit, the more abrasive the sandpaper, the higher the number, the finer the sandpaper.

I used GreenEZ Furniture Stripper to strip the varnish and stain from the old shelves. This stripper is made as non-toxic as possible to remain effective as well as eco-friendly. I love this stripper because it doesn’t use harsh chemicals and yet it’s still effective. (Two young children and a puppy will make a lady think twice about harmful chemicals.) To be safe, I still used this product in an open garage (and while wearing eye protection and a mask). You never know what could be underlying within the finish that you’re stripping.
Follow the directions for the stripper. Use this tutorial for some extra help! The biggest difference that I saw between this and harsh strippers is that you leave GreenEZ on for a longer amount of time. A little extra wait time for a healthier product is a no-brainer trade off for me!
I then cleaned the surface with the GreenEZ Finishing Cleaner to remove all extra residue. This cleaner can be used in a variety of ways including removing stripping residue, degreasing, and preparing surfaces to stain. I go into detail about the cleaning process in my post, “Rocking Chair Refresh” where I used it to prepare a chair for sanding.
I finished this step off by sanding the shelves (really getting into the corners and edges).

Tips: When stripping, #1 protect yourself. Use eye protection and wear a mask. Stripping gloves are also a must. #2 Use products that you can throw away. An old tin vegetable can (or anything old and durable that you don’t mind throwing away) can be used to scrape the stripper into. Do not use a plastic cup – the stripper will eat through it! #3 Do not attempt to clean out the stripper in the sink…it should not be put in your drains!

Make sure to remove all dust before repairing any damage. I use a wet microfiber cloth to clean the surface. Then, go over it with a tack cloth.
Apply the wood filler and scrape off with a putty knife (making sure not to damage the wood). Let it dry, then sand until smooth with 220 grit sandpaper. (Repeat the process if needed.)
Clean again (just like above) and then finish by going over the entire surface with a tack cloth.

I first applied painter’s tape around the built-in shelves that were attached to the bookcases just to protect the wood that was to be painted later.
When you are painting and staining something, stain first. You can always paint over the stain. In my case, if a little stain got on the wood that’s to be painted, no worries! (Same goes for the polyurethane, however, if you get a lot on there you’ll want to sand a bit before painting.) Before applying gel stain, stir until the stain is smooth.

For the removable shelves, I (generously) applied stain with the staining rag and immediately wiped it off with a cotton cloth. I linked lint free clothes, but you can also use ripped up old t-shirts, too. Once dried, I did a second coat.
For the built-in shelves, I used my pointer finger in cotton cloth for the edges and corners to avoid getting a large amount of stain in the corners that I couldn’t easily wipe out. (I didn’t want the edges and corners being a darker color than the rest.) Then, I applied the stain with the staining pad like I did for the removable shelves (two coats allowing the stain to dry in between).

The polyurethane was the final step to finish off the shelves. Polyurethane will give wood a glossy finish while protecting it from water and scrapes. I used a foam flat brush to apply it to about half of the shelf at a time. I then smoothed the entire shelf over with a dry flat foam brush. I applied two coats. Polyurethane must dry completely in between coats (about 24 hours). If it feels tacky, it is still wet and you need to wait longer to reapply.

Although I love the Trio Tools, I still chose to use a 1 inch brush to do the edging. That is just what I am comfortable with. I made sure to cover the built-in shelves to protect the stain. If you do drip a little paint on the stain, wipe it up with water immediately.

I chose to use the sponge applicator for the first coat for quicker coverage since there was so much surface area. I did stipple the paint with the applicator, which is a technique that creates an airbrushed finish. To watch a tutorial from Heirlooms Tradition on how to stipple (among other things), click here.

This paint dries really fast (an hour or so), so it was ready for a second coat basically when I was done with the first. For the second coat, I used the brush (truly my favorite…and I’m not just saying that!!!) and went over it with the foam roller. This creates the same airbrushed look as the foam applicator. (Either strategy will create an airbrushed look which minimizes brush strokes).

When attaching anything with a pattern, like this beadboard, you need to make sure it is straight. That was the number one priority here. I also didn’t want any of the backing to hang over, so I cut it to size (making it slightly smaller than the bookcase itself). I nailed the beadboard to the bookcases with tiny nails.

I finished this piece off by applying a third coat of paint. This is normal when you are using a light colored paint over a darker wood surface. I used the brush and roller for this final coat. I waited to apply the final coat until I attached the beadboard back in case the bookcase got bumped or nicked while attaching the back.