I was asked to help fix a ceiling imperfection after a worker accidentally put a foot through the ceiling during a roof repair. I did attempt the repair first (attempt being the key word here…bit of a disaster that I’ll share in another post) but once that was addressed, the entire ceiling still needed to be prepped for paint. This post focuses specifically on the cleaning and priming steps.
The ceiling had a visible layer of nicotine and general buildup that needed to be removed before repairs or paint could hold. Surfaces in this condition often require multiple cleanings and a sealing primer to prevent staining and adhesion issues. In this post, I’ll walk through how I cleaned the ceiling with TSP and primed it to create a clean, paint-ready surface.
First thing I want to say here: you can be the best, most precise painter out there, but that will all be for nothing if your area isn’t properly prepped (and that goes for furniture and walls, too). I have two steps that I will talk about here: cleaning and priming.
Supplies (click for Amazon links)
Cleaning:
Priming:
You can also visit my Lowe’s Storefront to get all of the essentials you’ll need for this project!
Cleaning
Cleaning Info
Nicotine is a tough cookie to remove because of its sticky nature, and without proper cleaning, your paint can quite literally peel right off. I searched the internet for the best cleaner to wash off the years of nicotine and grime on this ceiling, and I was a little surprised to find that it was TSP—the same cleaning product I use to prep most of my projects.
Because I don’t like to use products that are heavy with chemicals that could hurt me—or, more importantly, my children—I’ve done some research on the phosphate found in traditional TSP cleaners. For that reason, any project I complete in my home, I use phosphate-free TSP. It turns out phosphate-free TSP can work for nicotine, but truthfully, the phosphate makes the cleaner stronger, and nicotine is tough to remove. You can use this information to make your own decision. I still chose the phosphate-free TSP and simply made sure to go over the surface several more times, even after the water was coming out clean, just to be sure I got it all. (If you do choose to use TSP containing phosphate, take extra steps to protect yourself by wearing a mask and properly ventilating the room.)
And one final detail: Remove all recessed light covers. I just decided to replace them completely instead of going through the hassle of trying to clean them. Measure the existing covers to ensure a proper fit.
Cleaning Process
I mixed the TSP with warm water (check the ratio on your product) and started cleaning the surface, making sure to wear gloves. I dipped the cloth into the clean TSP water mixture, but after scrubbing the ceiling, I rinsed it out with running water before dipping it back in. I worked in small 4×4 patches and probably washed the entire surface three or four times. Even after I was confident the ceiling was clean, I went back over it one final time.
I repeated this process with the walls as well (because why not get them clean, too). The only difference was that I wiped the walls with clean water afterward to remove any TSP residue, since I wasn’t planning on repainting them.
Priming
Priming Info
In this particular situation, I needed a primer that could handle heavy staining. After a few ChatGPT searches, I decided on Zinsser BIN. Zinsser BIN is a shellac-based, high-stain-blocking primer. This product is specifically known for its stain-blocking strength, which is essential when working with heavily soiled areas. This is also the correct choice when working with walls exposed to nicotine.
One important thing to note: this product has a very strong and unpleasant smell. I opened the windows, but it became strong enough that I decided to put on my chemical mask as well.
Priming Process
This part is pretty straightforward. I prepped the entire area by laying drop cloths on the floor and using FrogTape to tape plastic drop cloths over the walls. Note: this was my first time using Zinsser BIN, and it was much thinner than I expected. The drop cloths on the floors and walls were essential.
I started on my ladder by edging the entire ceiling with a 1-inch Purdy brush. I’ve talked about this before, but edging brush size really comes down to personal preference. Some people think I’m crazy for not using a 2-inch brush—I just prefer a 1-inch. (Keep in mind, you may need an extra coat if you choose a thinner brush. The smaller the brush, the less paint it holds.)
I personally find edging ceilings difficult, so I did have a few spots where the walls will need to be touched up later. That will be my final step after the ceiling’s final paint job. I also went over the ceiling imperfection with a paintbrush first, since I knew staining could be an issue with the exposed drywall from the roof incident.
Lastly, using my 6-foot extendable roller, I rolled one full coat of Zinsser BIN over the entire ceiling. Paint sprays in all directions when rolling a ceiling—even if you don’t realize it at the time—and this product is very thin. Do not skip the protective eyewear.
Closing Thoughts
Prepping a ceiling like this isn’t fast or glamorous, but it makes all the difference in how your final paint job turns out. Taking the time to thoroughly clean and properly prime ensures the paint will actually stick, stains won’t bleed through, and you won’t be redoing the same work later. If you’re dealing with nicotine, grime, or years of buildup, don’t skip these steps—even if the surface looks “good enough.” A little extra effort here sets you up for a smooth, clean finish that will last. In my next post, I’ll share how I attempted to repair the ceiling damage itself—and what I ended up doing to fix this problem.
Wow Nat that was impressive!!!!!!
Thank you!!!! 🙂