Here it is…The secret to painting…The key to a perfect paint job…Proper prep. Of course, you need to properly apply the paint, as well, but the very first step is properly prepping the surface.
I can tell you from experience that nothing is worse than spending hours refinishing a piece of furniture only to have it chip or start peeling soon after you’re finished.
Take it from me. My outdoor furniture that I refinished is now chipping because I got lazy and skipped the primer. (That—and I left it uncovered all winter and let the weather ruin it…but that’s a story for another day.)
No one wants to spend money on supplies just to have the project ruined. My point? Proper prep is essential!
So here are seven common reasons paint chips—and how to avoid them.
1. You Didn't Properly Clean the Surface
Even if you can’t see it, your furniture likely has the following on it:
- Grease
- Furniture polish
- Wax residue
- Dirt and grime -especially if you have little fingers living in your house like me 🙂
If paint is applied over any of these, it can’t properly bond to the surface. Kitchen cabinets are especially prone to grease buildup, which is why chipping and peeling are so common when they’re not cleaned first.
How to Avoid It
I recommend using either phosphate-free TSP or Krud Kutter. Just be sure to rinse off any cleaner residue with clean water before moving on to the next step.
2. You Didn't Scuff Up the Surface
One of the biggest misconceptions is that paint will stick to anything. It won’t. Glossy finishes give paint very little to grab onto, which can lead to peeling later.
If you’re painting furniture, lightly sanding the surface creates tiny scratches that help primer and paint bond much better. For most painted furniture, 220 grit sandpaper is enough to remove the shine. I usually follow it with 320 grit to smooth everything back out. If the finish is rough or damaged, you may need to start with a coarser grit first, and then work your way up.
Some previously painted surfaces with only a slight sheen can also be prepped with a liquid deglosser (AKA liquid sandpaper) instead of sanding. (Just because I feel the need to say it – sanding generally does provide the best surface for adhesion.)
If you’re planning to stain wood instead of paint it, you’ll need to remove the existing finish completely. Stain needs to soak into bare wood, so simply scuff sanding isn’t enough.
How to Avoid It
Remove the glossy finish before painting. Sand when possible, or use a deglosser if you can’t sand. When I use Heirloom Traditions All-In-One Paint, I use their deglosser. It removes dirt and grim and takes away the sheen so the surface is ready. You can brush it on or choose wipes. I’ve also used Jasco deglosser. If you’re staining, use an electric sander to remove the existing finish completely so the stain can soak into the bare wood.
3. You Skipped the Primer
Primer isn’t always required, but there are certain situations where skipping it almost guarantees future problems. (Take it from me…I’ve been lazy a time or two and paid the price later.)
Primer helps paint stick to difficult surfaces. Double bonus that it also blocks stains and tannins from bleeding through the finish.
You’ll almost always want to use a bonding primer when painting:
- Laminate furniture
- Factory finishes
- High-gloss surfaces
- Melamine
- Cabinets
- Furniture with wood knots or stains
Shellac-based primers, such as Zinser BIN or Zinser 123, are especially effective on slick surfaces and for blocking stains and odors.
How to Avoid It
Simple: If you’re painting over anything slick, don’t skip the primer. Spending an extra hour priming can save you from having to repaint the entire piece later.
4. You Used the Wrong Type of Paint
Not all paint is designed for furniture. Standard wall paint, for example, isn’t made to stand up to constant touching, sliding, or cleaning.
Furniture paints, cabinet paints, alkyd enamels, and high-quality acrylic enamels cure into a much harder finish, making them better suited for high-use pieces.
That doesn’t mean you need to buy the most expensive paint on the shelf. It simply means choosing a paint that’s designed for the job you’re doing.
How to Avoid It
Use a paint made specifically for furniture or cabinets, especially on pieces that get frequent use. I like using Heirloom Traditions All in One Paint on furniture. There is some application strategy involved, but it has the primer and topcoat built into the paint, which makes it great for beginner painters.
Last tip here: Pay attention to the cure time and be careful with the furniture until it hits that point.
5. You Painted Over a Damaged Finish
Sometimes the old finish is already failing before you begin repainting it. You can apply a perfect paint finish, but if the existing paint or stain is peeling, flaking, bubbling, or water damaged, your new paint will soon begin to fail, as well. A good analogy is building a house on a cracked foundation – it’s a no go.
How to Avoid It
Scrape away loose paint, repair damaged areas, and sand the surface until it’s solid before you start painting. A stable base gives your new finish the best chance of lasting.
6. You Didn't Allow Enough Cure Time
I have to be honest, I never paid much attention to cure time. But in my research, I’ve learned how important it is to be careful with the piece until the finish has fully hardened.
Paint may feel dry within a few hours, but that doesn’t mean it’s fully cured. Dry means the surface no longer feels wet. Cured means the paint has reached its maximum hardness.
Depending on the type of paint, full cure can take anywhere from one week to 30 days. During that time, the finish is much easier to scratch or chip. I recently painted a bed frame and I accidentally chipped it after a day. After 30 days, I scraped it (intentionally) with a dime to see what would happen – didn’t make a mark!
How to Avoid It
Check the manufacturer’s cure time and handle your newly painted furniture gently until it’s fully cured. Waiting a little longer is much easier than having to repair chipped paint.
7. You Didn't Protect the Heavy-Wear Areas
Let’s face it. Some pieces simply take more abuse than others.
Tabletops, kitchen islands, cabinet doors, desks, and dining tables are constantly bumped, wiped down, and used every day. Even a properly cured paint finish may wear faster on these surfaces.
In some cases, adding a durable topcoat can provide extra protection against scratches, moisture, and everyday wear. Not every paint requires a topcoat, so always follow the paint manufacturer’s recommendations.
How to Avoid It
For furniture that sees heavy daily use, consider adding a compatible protective topcoat or choose a paint system that’s designed to be durable without one.
The good news is that most furniture paint problems are preventable. It may not be the most exciting part of a project (admittedly I don’t like prep work), but taking the extra time to clean, prep, and choose the right products is what makes the difference between a finish that lasts.
So before you start your next makeover, don’t rush the prep work. A little extra time upfront can save you a lot of frustration later — and help you create a piece you’ll actually enjoy for years to come.